LEMONAID

CHRONICLE: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO, JANUARY 2023

If I lived in a place where lemons grew, my house would be decorated with lemon filled ceramic bowls and baskets in lieu of flowers.

I’d also keep a jar, or jars, of preserved lemons in my refrigerator.

But I live in the high desert of Albuquerque where the 5,000-foot elevation negates growing lemons in my garden. In fact, it is downright frosty here right now.

Somehow, I’ve forgotten about making preserved lemons. The light on the Sandia Mountains in the aftermath of a recent snowfall reminded me how much I miss them. It was the light in this photo that made me think that if sunshine had a taste, it would taste like preserved lemons.

I lived in Las Vegas, from 1997-2008. During that time, I worked at Williams-Sonoma as a sales associate and the cooking class coordinator. It was my job to book local chefs to come into the store for cooking demonstrations that included a light meal, prepared using the stores’ vast array of cookware and tools.

One night, I learned about preserved lemons.

Married chefs Wendy and Michael Jordan were on the cusp of opening Rosemary’s Restaurant in 1999, their first Las Vegas venture, when they were the featured chefs for the cooking class. The Las Vegas restaurant scene at that time was not as robust as it is now. Off-strip restaurants were essentially limited to non-descript chains and fast-food establishments. Rosemary’s Restaurant would go on to become highly successful winning excellence awards for a decade. In 2007, the Nevada Restaurant Association voted Wendy and Michael “Restaurateurs of the Year”.

The night they came to Williams-Sonoma for their cooking class, they brought their personal jar of preserved lemons. None of the participants, world-class eaters, and skilled home cooks, me included, had ever tasted, or cooked with preserved lemons. I have no memory of the menu Wendy and Michael prepared that night. The memory I carry is of the preserved lemons and how they made everything taste brighter, better, amped up.

I pulled Wendy aside and asked her if I could preserve lemons myself at home.

“Is it difficult?”, I asked.

“There is nothing easier. All you need is time to let the lemons cure in their salt bath.”

I don’t know about you, but the words ‘lemons curing in their salt bath’ makes me smile.

Preserved lemons are swoon worthy additions wherever and whenever you’re using fresh lemons. They will blow your socks off! Once they’ve cured, the rinds are plushy and soft. The flesh will develop a citrus on steroids–in a good way– quality. They are simultaneously mellow and bright.

Time really is the main ingredient. You’ll need to pay some attention to the curing lemons by turning the jar (or jars) daily from right side up to upside down to ensure the liquid is evenly distributed. Organic lemons (if availability and budget allow) are preferred since you’ll be eating the rind of the lemon as well as the tenderized flesh. After about a month in the refrigerator, the lemons will be preserved. The lemons will be softer, their flavor more intense than a fresh lemon could ever be.

But what, you might be wondering, do your preserved lemons go best with?

This is the fun part. Once you start using your preserved lemons, you’ll be wondering what foods don’t pair well with them.

Historically, preserved lemons were used in North African cuisine where tagine and couscous prevail. But the first meal I cooked using preserved lemons was roasted chicken. I chopped up a few wedges of the preserved lemons and stuffed the jammy mixture under the chicken skin, then roasted the chicken as usual. Just writing this sentence has made my mouth water.

What I’m saying is that you can substitute preserved lemons wherever fresh are called for. Most recipes for roasted meats and fish will acquire a depth of flavor that fresh lemons just don’t provide. Grilled veggies would also benefit from a sprinkle of chopped preserved lemons or at least a drizzle of their lemony liquid. You could even use a teaspoon or so of the liquid in lemon desserts to heighten the flavors.

Once my new batch of lemons are preserved, after I’ve turned my jars from right side up to upside down for a month, I’m planning to make fettuccine dressed with garlic oil, crushed red peppers, chopped preserved lemons and a generous amount of grated pecorino cheese.

If you want, give the preserved lemons a quick rinse under cold water before using to remove the excess salt…or not! Honestly, the choice is yours.

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PRESERVED LEMONS

INGREDIENTS:

2 pounds lemons, about 10 lemons

½ cup kosher salt–90g Diamond Crystal or 124g Morton’s

¼ cup or 50g granulated sugar

HOW TO:

• Begin by giving the lemons a vinegar bath in a large bowl. Mix one part vinegar with 3 parts water. Let lemons soak for about 3 minutes. Rinse with cold water and proceed with recipe.

• Trim the tops and bottoms of the lemons.

• Cut each lemon into 6 wedges and place in large bowl.

• Add salt and sugar to lemons and toss well to combine.

• Cover with plastic and refrigerate overnight.

• The following day, transfer the lemons and the liquid that has been released into a sterilized canning jar.

• Secure lids and keep in refrigerator for up to 12 months.